
"In 2003, whether due to a faulty GPS or some funky pruning in the Hecker Pass, the Cigare drifted away from its traditional reliance on grenache as a moral tether. Here syrah and mourvedre are dominant and they have seen fit to take grenache behind the woodshed. Of recent vintages, the '03 is the densest. We last detoured down this track in 1995 and one can hardly quarrel with the results. The '03 should mature along a similar trajectory, the meaty musculature of the syrah and mourvedre providing a solid framework for the spice cake and peppery ornamentation to coalesce and evolve around for the next 15 years."
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